Geological
Tables
The
Atherton Tablelands
by Peter Whitehead
The Atherton Tablelands rise up west of the town
of Cairns on the east coast of Australia's Queensland. Travelling west
from Cairns will take you up through an escarpment on to a dissected plateau
some 600 metres high and many thousands of square kilometres in area. This
plateau rises to 800 metres in the west and reaches over 1000 m on the
tops of the remnants of shield volcanoes. It is an area of tropical rain
forest, in which man has carved out land for agriculture because of the
rich volcanic soils. These soils are derived from recent volcanic activity,
but the geological history of the area stretches back some 420 million
years. At that time, the coastline of the continent was about 150
km to the west of the present coast, and the area of the Atherton tableland
was a deep ocean basin. Continental sediments were deposited into
this off-shore basin and, with continual subsidence, around 10 kilometres
of sediments accumulated over some 60 million years.
About 360 million years ago, the region changed
from being an extensional regime to one of compression and the sediments
were uplifted to form high mountains of metamorphic rocks such as slate
and schist. In the period from 310 to 230 million years ago, episodes of
heating led to deep-seated magmatism and the development of granite. In
some areas, the acidic magma found its way to the surface, where it produced
violent eruptions, producing welded ash flows. After erosion removed the
surrounding rocks, the granites remained and formed the large mountain
ranges such as Bartle Frere, Queensland's highest mountain, Bellenden Ker,
the mountains north of Lake Tinaroo and the coastal ranges to the east.
Some of the resulting volcanics now form the ranges on the western edge
of the tableland.
Not much happened here for the next 100 million
years or so, except for erosion gradually lowering the highlands to a plain
of low relief and exposing the granites. About 100 million years ago, rising
convection currents in the earth's mantle heated the crust, doming it upwards.
Plate tectonic movements pulled the crust apart, until, about 65 million
years ago, the continent split and the Coral Sea was created. The eastern
side subsided beneath the sea, but the western side remained as highlands
with a steep eastern escarpment. Since then, the escarpment has retreated
west, through continual erosion, forming the present landforms of the coastal
plain, escarpment and tablelands, with resistant granite ranges rising
above them.
About 3 million years ago, basalt volcanoes started
erupting lavas over the tablelands. Some of the most voluminous flows
poured over the escarpment down a pre-existing valley formed by the Johnson
River. These flows form the relatively gentle ramp up the escarpment that
is utilised by the Palmerston Highway. The original course of the Johnson
River was blocked, and two new valleys, the North Johnson and the South
Johnson were formed on either side of the flows. More recently, from about
1 million years onwards, smaller volcanoes have erupted relatively minor
basalt flows, but have built small, steep sided, conical cinder cones that
can be seen dotted around the Atherton tableland. One notable group is
located between Atherton and Yungaburra and contains nine separate vents.
Consequently it is called the Seven Sisters.
Some of the most recent eruptions have been the
most spectacular, producing maar volcanoes of small height, but with very
wide craters. When the eruptions cease, these craters become crater lakes,
the best known examples being Lake Barrine and Lake Eacham. Another spectacular
volcanic vent can be seen in Hypipamee National Park and is simply known
as 'the Crater'. This volcano has reamed a spectacular vent through the
surrounding granite. The eruption would have involved large amounts of
gases, with the extrusion of only minor amounts of basalt. Volcanic
activity has been intermittent on the tableland for the past 3 million
years, with the most recent eruptions being perhaps as recent as 10,000
years ago or so. Given the age range and the intermittent nature of the
volcanism, it is likely that some volcanism will occur in the future, although
we may still need to wait a few thousand years or so.
.
Read next article: Table Rocks,
Oregon
Figures
The Atherton Tablelands from the air close
to Bartle Frere
The Atherton Tablelands from the air showing
Cristmas Falls
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