The Edinburgh Geologist
Issue no 41


Geological Tables
The Atherton Tablelands

by Peter Whitehead



The Atherton Tablelands rise up west of the town of Cairns on the east coast of Australia's Queensland. Travelling west from Cairns will take you up through an escarpment on to a dissected plateau some 600 metres high and many thousands of square kilometres in area. This plateau rises to 800 metres in the west and reaches over 1000 m on the tops of the remnants of shield volcanoes. It is an area of tropical rain forest, in which man has carved out land for agriculture because of the rich volcanic soils. These soils are derived from recent volcanic activity, but the geological history of the area stretches back some 420 million years.  At that time, the coastline of the continent was about 150 km to the west of the present coast, and the area of the Atherton tableland was a deep ocean basin.  Continental sediments were deposited into this off-shore basin and, with continual subsidence, around 10 kilometres of sediments accumulated over some 60 million years.

About 360 million years ago, the region changed from being an extensional regime to one of compression and the sediments were uplifted to form high mountains of metamorphic rocks such as slate and schist. In the period from 310 to 230 million years ago, episodes of heating led to deep-seated magmatism and the development of granite. In some areas, the acidic magma found its way to the surface, where it produced violent eruptions, producing welded ash flows. After erosion removed the surrounding rocks, the granites remained and formed the large mountain ranges such as Bartle Frere, Queensland's highest mountain, Bellenden Ker, the mountains north of Lake Tinaroo and the coastal ranges to the east. Some of the resulting volcanics now form the ranges on the western edge of the tableland.

Not much happened here for the next 100 million years or so, except for erosion gradually lowering the highlands to a plain of low relief and exposing the granites. About 100 million years ago, rising convection currents in the earth's mantle heated the crust, doming it upwards. Plate tectonic movements pulled the crust apart, until, about 65 million years ago, the continent split and the Coral Sea was created. The eastern side subsided beneath the sea, but the western side remained as highlands with a steep eastern escarpment. Since then, the escarpment has retreated west, through continual erosion, forming the present landforms of the coastal plain, escarpment and tablelands, with resistant granite ranges rising above them.

About 3 million years ago, basalt volcanoes started erupting lavas over the tablelands.  Some of the most voluminous flows poured over the escarpment down a pre-existing valley formed by the Johnson River. These flows form the relatively gentle ramp up the escarpment that is utilised by the Palmerston Highway. The original course of the Johnson River was blocked, and two new valleys, the North Johnson and the South Johnson were formed on either side of the flows. More recently, from about 1 million years onwards, smaller volcanoes have erupted relatively minor basalt flows, but have built small, steep sided, conical cinder cones that can be seen dotted around the Atherton tableland. One notable group is located between Atherton and Yungaburra and contains nine separate vents. Consequently it is called the Seven Sisters.

Some of the most recent eruptions have been the most spectacular, producing maar volcanoes of small height, but with very wide craters. When the eruptions cease, these craters become crater lakes, the best known examples being Lake Barrine and Lake Eacham. Another spectacular volcanic vent can be seen in Hypipamee National Park and is simply known as 'the Crater'. This volcano has reamed a spectacular vent through the surrounding granite. The eruption would have involved large amounts of gases, with the extrusion of only minor amounts of  basalt. Volcanic activity has been intermittent on the tableland for the past 3 million years, with the most recent eruptions being perhaps as recent as 10,000 years ago or so. Given the age range and the intermittent nature of the volcanism, it is likely that some volcanism will occur in the future, although we may still need to wait a few thousand years or so.
.

Read next article: Table Rocks, Oregon


Figures

Atherton Tablelands

The Atherton Tablelands from the air close to Bartle Frere

Atherton Tablelands

The Atherton Tablelands from the air showing Cristmas Falls

[Return to Edinburgh Geologist index]

[Home] [News] [About] [Lectures] [Excursions] [Publications] [Edinburgh's geology] [GeoConservation] [Links]