The Edinburgh Geologist
Issue no 31
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The Edinburgh Geologist | | ||||||||
review by Ian Basham
An introduction detailing whisky and describing the production process is followed by a short account of the nature, movement and mode of distribution of groundwater as a source for distillation and cooling. The book is then divided into five chapters based of geological 'blocks' which also conveniently enable grouping of the distilleries more or less according to the traditional 'regions'. The inference is that the geology, through the water, affects the character of the malts. The chapters are: The Argyll Islands (Islay and Jura and their malts); The Grampian Highlands (Highland Boundary Fault to the Great Glen - Speyside, Keith and Elgin, West Highland, Perthshire malts); The Far North (The Old Red Sandstone - Northern Highland and Orkney malts); The Deep South (The Midland Valley - Lowland, Campbeltown and some South Highland malts); The Wild West (Tertiary Volcanics - Western Island and Bushmills!!). The significance of the last three chapter titles escapes me but they seem to have an unnecessarily North American connotation, not entirely savoury. For the geology, the scheme works well. Concepts and processes are introduced and broad regional patterns established in language that should enable the non-geologist to gain a reasonable understanding, helped by a useful glossary of geological terms. The 'tours' of the distilleries are accompanied by accounts of many local geological features but many other interesting scenic, environmental or historical items are also included and illustrated. Chapters are introduced by attractive use of satellite imagery, sketch maps and geological sections and concluded with quite beautifully painted regional panoramas. Well-chosen geological or scenic links between chapters and frequent cross-referencing maintains a feeling of continuity throughout. The page layout is attractive, blocks of text never too long to become tedious and interspersed with Richard Bell's excellent watercolours. Turning to the whiskies, the source of water for each distillery is placed within the geological framework and comments made on softness, mineral content etc. Not all distilleries are included, as claimed. Among the omissions, notable are Glen Garioch and Convahnore, the latter rather surprisingly as it would complete the cited 'seven stills of Dufftown' and also as mention is made of the site of its water source, the Conval Hills. One of the stated aims of the book 'to lift the curtain' on the 'effects of different types of water on the final product' is not really achieved to any extent. No pattern emerges relating the differing character of the whiskies to variations in the water sources. Regional characteristics are not brought out except for Islay and, to a lesser degree, Campbeltown, but even here the treatment lacks objectivity. The well-known phenolic, pungent flavour of most Islay malts is noted and the influence of the island's peat and waters discussed. However, no mention is made of the profound influence of the salty/seaweedy atmosphere which penetrates the porosity of the casks during the long period of maturation. Other example of unevenness of detail, possibly even bias, is the neglect of the fact that, although Glenfiddich and its sister distillery, Balvenie, are markedly different malts, they both draw their process waters from the Robbie Dhu springs. (Note that Balvenie is not and has not been closed!). This pair of whiskies is perhaps the best example of the relative contribution to the final character made by the malting, distillation and maturation processes compared with the intrinsic properties of the water. Analysis* has shown that minute amounts of as many as five hundred different (organic) molecules are present in matured whisky. Many of these form through a complex series of chemical interactions, involving cask wood, during maturation. Influenced by a number of factors including the nature of the cask, the local microclimate, storage conditions in bond etc. they are accepted as making the dominant contribution to the final unique flavour. One has only to sample and compare the raw spirit from the still with that drawn from the cask after maturation to appreciate this. The necessarily brief, often perfunctory descriptions of individual malts are not uniformly discriminatory and will prove of limited value as an introduction to their enjoyment. No guidance is given to help the newcomer select a range of typical malts for sampling in order to establish personal preferences. For example, the fairly average Fettercairn merits the description 'all too-easily drinkable, light malt'' while the great Macallan is dismissed only as 'sweet'. What of its unique nose, colour and notable sherry flavour? Comments are likewise absent for several of the 'classic' malts including Balvenie, Clyneleish, Cragganmore, Clenfarclas, Highland Park and Talisker. In spite of these reservations, perhaps by an over-critical malt lover, this book represents excellent value for money. It contains a wealth of information on Scottish geology, whisky and other topics of interest to the traveller. It is superbly illustrated and attractively presented. Although it is not clear for whom it is really intended (geologist, whisky drinker or tourist) I hope it will find its niche among the ever-increasing selection of whisky books to be found in Scottish booksellers and tourist outlets. * "Mysteries of the malt", Julie Johnson. New Scientist; 26 January I991, pp 56-59. WHISKY
ON THE ROCKS - ORIGINS OF THE 'WATER OF LIFE'
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