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Shetland
Saga
by David Gould
Sadly preparations for the Edinburgh Geological
Society's annual long excursion in 1988 were severely disrupted by the
sudden and tragic death of the designated leader, Wally
Mykura, just one week before the start of the excursion. Fortunately
he had already prepared and discussed the itinerary with Andrew McMillan,
who bravely agreed to go ahead with the excursion as planned. So the anticipation
of the spectacular geology to be seen in Shetland was tinged with regret
that someone with such strong links to Shetland and its geology would no
longer be with us.
The advance guard of the party left Edinburgh
for Aberdeen on Friday 20 May, under the command of lan Hogarth in a hired
minibus, fully laden as usual with provisions, and travelled overnight
to Lerwick on the St. Clair, while the majority of the party flew by Loganair
from Edinburgh to Tingwall on the 21st, and a second minibus was hired
in Shetland. Base was set up at Wester Houll Chalets, magnificently sited
overlooking Scalloway beside a large wind generator, which has since suffered
severe damage in the winter storms.
Shortly after gaining entry to the chalets and
off-loading the provisions and luggage, the airborne party joined the seafarers
who had been looking at the exhibits, including some very good mineral
specimens, in the Lerwick museum. The remainder of the Saturday was spent
examining the Old Red Sandstone exposures near Lerwick. The base of the
succession consists of the Rova Head Conglomerate containing rounded clasts
of granite, not presently exposed in the immediate vicinity, and Dalradian
metasediments. Exposures just south of Lerwick town show cross-bedded sandstones
cut by irregular calcite veins and folded into sharp monoclines; similar
to those on Bressay, where they are associated with volcanic vents. The
day was rounded off by a visit to the Broch of Clickhimin, a well-preserved
pre-Norse fortified dwelling built on a peninsula jutting into a small
loch.
Rova Head Conglomerate, at the base of the
Middle Old Red Sandstone, near Lerwick
Sunday's excursion was to the southern Mainland.
At Fladdabister, the base of the Old Red Sandstone succession is a breccia,
with smaller but more angular clasts than the Rova Head Clonglomerate.
Its unconformity on Dalradian schists of the Ouarff Nappe was well exposed.
At Sandwick, the party climbed a small hill for a binocular view of the
Broch of Mousa, noting the local flaggy siltstones in passing. The sun
came out briefly at the lunch stop on the tombolo (sand bar) linking the
Mainland to St. Ninian's Isle.
The afternoon itinerary took us first to the Loch
of Spiggie, where highly weathered epidote-rich granite of the Spiggie
Complex was seen in faulted contact with strongly folded phyllites of the
Clift Hills Division (Upper Dalradian). Then followed another archaeological
break at Jarlshof, where successive buildings of Celtic, Viking and Mediaeval
farming communities have been excavated and opened to visitors. A brief
very cold and windy stop was made at the Slithers, beside Sumburgh lighthouse,
in order to examine calcareous layers in the greyish flaggy Old Red Sandstone.
This was followed by an excavation programme at the Exnaboe Fish Bed. The
location of the Fish Bed was easily discovered from the pile of detritus
left behind by previous fossil fishermen, and carbonised fish scales proved
quite abundant.
On the Monday, the party made its way to Esha
Ness, in the far northwest of the Mainland. This proved a good move, as
the wind was from the east, and we received sunshine and shelter together.
A stop was made at Mavis Grind, where a road cutting exposes wide scapolite
veins in diorites of the Northmaven Complex and the Atlantic Ocean comes
within 50 metres of the North Sea. We also viewed the Heads of the Grocken,
where spectacular cliff scenery is developed in the Ronas Hill Granite.
At Esha Ness to the west of the Melby Fault, the
local Old Red Sandstone succession is younger than that in south-east Shetland.
It consists largely of volcanic rocks, which were examined in a walk from
Esha Ness to the Grind of the Navir. Particularly spectacular were a volcanic
breccia at Esha Ness itself and a rhyolitic ignimbrite, with flattened
and welded lapilli, at the Grind of the Navir. The coastal scenery was
testament to the force and erosive power of the sea on exposed coasts.
At the Holes of Scraada, for example, the sea has eroded a 500 metre long
subterranean passage whose roof has collapsed, while at the Grind of the
Navir there is a storm beach Iying 15 metres above sea level and 50 metres
inland. The storm beach consists of rectangular blocks of rhyolitic ignimbrite,
up to 5 metres in size, plucked from the cliffs; not a place to visit during
winter storms. On the way back to Scalloway we visited the disused magnetite
mine at Clothister, where specimens of massive magnetite were readily obtainable.
The magnetite rock occurs within a fairly narrow band in a group of varied
schists of uncertain provenance (the Queyfirth Group).
Tuesday's trip to the Walls peninsula enabled
the party to see yet another facies of the Old Red Sandstone, this time
that lying between the Walls Boundary Fault and the Melby Fault. These
rocks are older and more strongly folded than those to the east and west
and have been intruded by Caledonian granitic rocks. The Walls Sandstone
Formation consists of mainly fine-grained grey sandstones which exhibit
graded bedding, ripple marking and large-scale desiccation cracks. Considerable
argument was generated among the party as to whether the sedimentary structures
indicate deep or shallow water sedimentation, but eventually a consensus
was reached that at least some of the sedimentation took place in shallow
water.
In the afternoon, the party crossed the Melby
Fault and attempted to find fossil fish remains in the Melby Fish Bed which
is roughly contemporaneous with the Esha Ness volcanics. We had much less
success fossil-hunting than at Exnaboe. Finally we travelled across the
Melby Fault again to see the metamorphic rocks underlying the Walls Sandstone.
The abundance of marble and calcsilicate rocks in the West Burra Firth
Group (?Grenvillian) was noted, before rain and time forced a retreat.
Flame structures in the Melby Fish Bed
On Wednesday the party split. While a "sedate"
group visited Bressay but found the ferry to Ness inoperative, the "hard"
party of 10-12 souls went to Fethaland, at the extreme north of the Mainland,
and managed to combine the best geology of the week with the best weather.
After noting a small patch of Old Red Sandstone breccia similar to that
seen at Fladdabister (perhaps a clue to the amount of throw on the Walls
Boundary Fault?), we examined the varied schists and amphibolites of the
Queyfirth Group. These contained pods of talcschist and an ultrabasic chlorite-schist
with beautiful octahedral magnetite crystals weathering out of it.
After lunch, beside a sheltered gravel storm beach
linking the point of Fethaland to the mainland, we visited the new lighthouse
on the point, where we were rewarded with a view of Gruney Island (another
Old Red Sandstone outlier) and the far off cliffs of Yell. To the west
of the Oueyfirth Group we traversed the Sand Voe Group, which consists
mainly of psammites with thin bands of hornblendic rocks, all of which
dip at moderate angles to the east. These rocks are regarded as Moine with
Lewisian inliers. As we proceeded westwards, the rocks became progressively
more sheared, until we reached the Wester Keolka Shear Zone. This is a
much more deep-seated and steeper dislocation than the Moine Thrust (which
occupies an equivalent position in north-west Scotland), which separates
the Sand Voe Group from the sheared orthogneisses of the Wilgi Geos Group
(Lewisian). The orthogneisses were at first not very convincing due to
the intense shearing, but the last outcrop of the day, on the west coast
of the Fethaland peninsula, showed a less sheared and more believable Lewisian
gneiss.
Thursday saw the party reunited for the long haul
to Unst, which necessitated a 7 am start to catch the two ferries. The
Dalradian metasediments of the Valla Field Block, which forms the west
coast of Unst, were seen at Burra Firth before the party went on a good
plowter through the very muddy Queyhouse talc quarry, in sheared and altered
ultrabasic rocks of the lowest ophiolite nappe. The boundary of this nappe
was seen at the Taing of Norwick, where hornblende schists of the Saxa
Vord Block are separated from serpentinites of the ophiolite nappe by a
1-2 metre wide band of talc-schist. We then walked along the shore to try
to find outcrops of the Skaw Granite, a foliated rock with 5cm phenocrysts
of red microcline, and although we failed, abundant waterworn boulders
were seen and a few were collected.
After lunch, the return southward was punctuated
by a visit to some of the many disused chromite excavations north of Baltasound,
where good specimens of chromite and kammererite (a violet chromium-bearing
mica-like mineral) were collected, but the chrome garnet uvarovite proved
elusive. Lack of time and deteriorating weather meant that attempts to
visit the Muness Phyllites and the gabbros and sheeted dykes of the ophiolite
were abandoned in favour of a brief sightseeing stop at Muness Castle.
Friday's excursion started with a drive along
the road from Bixter through Aith to Voe, mostly just east of the Walls
Boundary Fault. After noting psammites of the Moine Yell Sound Division
cut by monzonites of the Spiggie Complex, the party examined in detail
the metamorphic aureole caused by the intrusion of a circular hornblendite/diorite
plug into pelites of the Scatsa Division (Lower Dalradian).
After a stop at the craft shop in Voe, lunch was
taken on the beach at Lunna House (headquarters of the "Shetland Bus" during
the Second World War). The spectacular Valayre Gneiss was seen, containing
prophyroblasts of red microcline 5-8 cm in size. The gneiss is a marker
horizon which lies close to the Moine-Dalradian boundary east of the Walls
Boundary Fault. The party then visited Vidlin, where a gossan, with spectacular
colours caused by iron oxide minerals, marks the outcrop of a Cu-Zn-Pb-bearing
massive sulphide horizon. This provided a good sunbathing location, and
the troops proved difficult to rally for the final locality of the day,
just off the Vidlin-Lunning road, where large crystals of staurolite, kyanite
and sillimanite in Dalradian pelites were enthused over and collected by
many.
On the Friday evening the party assembled in the
Hogarth chalet for a small celebration. Your correspondent was initiated
into the mysteries of the Strontian Hammer by being most surprisingly presented
with this trophy "at the first attempt and without even trying"! The citation
included encouraging the party to reach the last and best outcrop of Lewisian
on Fethaland, and research into the effect of penny whistle music on nesting
fulmars (from a safe distance!).
Saturday's schedule only permitted a brief excursion
because the flight from Tingwall was scheduled for lunchtime. One minibus
load made the trip to Hamnavoe on West Burra, where the wide spread Spiggie
Complex was seen yet again, this time in the guise of a granite with large
(5cm) microcline phenocrysts. This made an interesting comparison with
the Skaw granite and the Valayre Gneiss. Monzonite and hornblendite of
the complex were also seen as well as another storm beach and some seals
swimming in the sea. The airborne party managed to leave despite the low
cloud and mist only a few miles to the east. The seafarers were able to
stay on Shetland till Sunday evening, but their activities were hampered
by fog and low-lying cloud for most of the time.
In all, the excursion was very successful and
Andrew McMillan performed very well despite his rather sudden elevation
to leadership.
Author: David Gould, British Geological Survey,
Edinburgh.
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